Unfairly dismissed as a tourist trap (which, in truth, it was for some years), Broussard's is a perfectly fine alternative if your top choices are booked up. Chef Gunther Preuss and his wife, Evelyn, own the place, which includes an elegant, formal dining room and a lovely courtyard, and were dedicated even from the early days post-Katrina to reopening their restaurant, even if they had to use frozen, not fresh fish for awhile. Such a little thing, but recall, "Gunther has a way with crab," claims his press material, and once we stopped giggling over that turn of phrase, we have had to admit it is true. Chef takes his seafood seriously. Try the appetizer of crabmeat Florentine, which includes spinach and is covered in a brie sauce. Be sure to order the baked filet of redfish Herbsaint (a local anise-flavored liqueur), clever and delicious in its components, which include impossibly sweet crabmeat and lemon risotto.

The Scene
An institution in the French Quarter since 1920, Broussard's resembles a stately mansion, with three spacious dining rooms, each with their own design touches--dark wood and red walls in one; French tapestries and floor-to-ceiling windows in another, and a lush garden courtyard. Chef/owner Gunter Preuss keeps his menu sophisticated and modern. The staff is refreshingly attentive, as if each server were your own personal Jeeves.

The Food
Standard Creole dishes get a French update and upscale presentations. Corn and shrimp bisque is fortified with sweet potato puree, another layer of depth in the flavorful classic. Grilled pompano Napoleon teams a moist fillet of the Gulf favorite with seared scallops and shrimp, all inside a puff pastry. The veal escalope Acadian combines sauteed veal, crabmeat and an excellent mustard/dill bechamel sauce. For a light yet decadent dessert, the Paris-Brest pastry is tops, with vanilla cream, pistachio