Irene's is somewhat off the regular tourist dining
path, and locals would probably prefer
to keep it that way, even though they often
have to wait upwards of 90 minutes for
a table. (A friend of ours was their third
customer post-Katrina, and the sight of
the place nearly empty was shocking to
him!) To many, the French Provincial/Italian
food is worth the wait, and you may agree.
Once
you enter, you will find a dark, noisy,
cluttered tavern, with friendly waiters
who seem delighted you came. We were thrilled
by soft-shell-crab pasta, an entirely successful
Italian/New Orleans hybrid consisting of
a whole fried crustacean atop a bed of
pasta with a cream sauce of garlic, crawfish,
tomatoes, and wads of basil leaves. The
panned oysters and grilled shrimp appetizer
can be magnificent, and don't forget pollo
rosemarino -- five pieces of chicken marinated,
partly cooked, marinated again, and then
cooked a final time
Cozy, romantic Quarter spot
packs in adoring locals with
a menu of Italian influences
paired with hints of southern
France.
The
Scene
Finding this always-crowded French Quarter
standby might take some work, but once you're
through the door, you're caught up in a familial
vibe that's simultaneously swirling and relaxed.
Snappy, well-rehearsed waitstaff and the ever-charming
Irene DiPietro preside over three kitschy yet
romantic dining spaces--parlor, library, and
wine cellar.
The
Food
Irene's dishes up classic Creole-Italian cuisine--the
love child of Sicilian immigrant cuisine and
buttery French-inspired sauces native to the
city. Shellfish dominate the starter list,
with the eponymous oyster dish--baked half-shells
with savory pancetta-romano topping--taking
well-deserved top billing. A shortish list
of entrees mixes continental metaphors with
excellent results. An ethereal soft-shell crab
floats in a light-bodied crawfish-parmesean
cream, while the trademark rosemary chicken
packs a subtly sweet punch of roasted garlic.
End with another hybrid knockout, a Foster-sauced
bread pudding with sauteed bananas and ice
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