Taking over the tired Tavern on the Park's space, this latest establishment by a scion of the Brennan family continues to uphold their reputation as first-rate restaurateurs. That's even before you get to the food, thanks to an iconic view of the Spanish moss-draped giant oaks (a bit raggedy, but still there) across the street in City Park. It's a delightful spot for lunch after a visit to the park and museum, or for an early summer evening dinner (when the light is still good). At dinner, appetizers are hit-or-miss, so you might want to focus on the entrees. The pan-seared scallops, bread-crumb-crusted drum, and glazed duckling are all sterling -- and would be our top choices if we hadn't tried the lamb chops, which were the most tender we have ever eaten. Lunches, once they return, are the way to go here (though the evening menu is affordably priced), given the range of liberally portioned entrees, sandwiches, and salads. Most notable is that Ralph's has a vegetarian-specific menu (ask for it) with some well-considered options (pan-sautéed vegetable cake, crepe gateau of spinach and chard), instead of the usual veggie-friendly suspects.

Billed as a restaurant "by locals for locals," this outstanding renovation of an 1860s-era City Park tavern blends comfortably upscale surroundings with historical imagery and a few modern design cues. Huge picture windows bring moss-draped oaks to a formal, white linen ambience that packs in well-turned business folk and inbound suburbanites. Three private upstairs dining rooms offer elegant settings for larger groups. As befits a Brennan's venture, service is efficient and polite.

The far-reaching menu is solid and local, if low on the flash factor: Expect exceptional variations of New Orleans classics (lump crab meat and tangy hot-sauce butter on fried green tomatoes) and signature seafood dishes (plump baked oysters with jalepeno cream and smoky bacon chunks). Meatless options include an outstanding starter of perfectly fried exotic mushrooms that mimic fried oysters in texture and taste. Flaky, tender baked drum is flawless, its flavors highlighted with subtle Bernaise and a crunchy-moist bread-crumb topping. Save room for the chocolaty, pudding-like Theobroma