New
Orleans is known the wide world over for its exotic cuisine.
Not surprisingly, a number of linguistic idiosyncracies
crop up on local menus. To wit: andouille (ahn-doo-ee)
and boudin (boo-dan) are both spicy Cajun sausages.
A
beignet (bin-yay) is a delicious square doughnut liberally
sprinkled with powdered sugar, but the word is also used
for fried tidbits of fish served as an appetizer.
Chicory (chik-o-ree) is an herb, the roots of
which are dried, ground, roasted, and used to flavor the
potent coffee we favor.
Cafe' au lait is half hot milk and half chicory
coffee, delicious with sweet, sugary beignets.

Crawfish
- enormously popular in these parts -is a tiny critter
that resembles a miniature lobster. Locals often called
them "mudbugs" because they live in the mud
of freshwater streams.
Crawfish and shrimp turn up in a wide variety
of local dishes, including the ubiquitous etouffee. In
French, etouffee (ay-too-fay) means "smothered";
in these parts it means a succulent, tomato-based sauce
in which crawfish and shrimp are, well, smothered.
Jambalaya (jum-boh-lie-ya), a culinary cousin
of Spanish paella, is a many-splendored dish involving
rice, tomatoes, ham, shrimp, andouille, chicken, celery,
onions and spices.
You run across an array of gumbos here. Gumbo
is a thick, robust soup with many variations (all of which
include rice), such as chicken and andouille, okra gumbo,
shrimp gumbo and file' (feelay) gumbo. (Incidentally,
file' is ground sassafras.)
A
mirliton is a hard-shelled vegetable pear that's cooked
like squash and stuffed with spicy ground beef, ham, or
shrimp; and plantain, a member of the banana family, is
a sweetish vegetable sidedish. Pain perdu (French for
"lost bread") is French toast made with thick
slices of French bread.
Red beans and rice (a creamy mixture of kidney
beans, rice, sausages and seasonings) is traditionally
served on Mondays in South Louisiana, the reason being
that after a weekend of rich brunches and dinners, locals
like to start the week off with simple but hearty "stick-to-your-ribs"
fare. If you're accustomed to Southern BBQ, a serving
of New Orleans barbeque shrimp will take you by surprise;
it isn't "barbecued" at all, but whole "peel-and-eat"
shrimp simmered in a zingy garlic-butter sauce.
Pralines
(praw-leens), which can be found in souvenir, candy, and
gift shops all over town, are sweet-sweet patties made
with sugar, butter, and pecans; there are lots of variations,
including a chocolaty concoction.
Oysters - tons of which are consumed by New Orleanians
- are the raison d'etre of Oysters Bienville and Oysters
Rockefeller, both of which originated here. For the Bienville-style
dish, oysters are baked in their shells in a creamy sauce
flavored with shrimp, mushrooms, and sometimes garlic
or mustard. Named for the fellow who sauce is made with
pureed greens flavored with anise liqueur.
Bananas
Foster, an enormously popular dessert, involves bananas
sauteed in butter, sugar, and cinnamon, then flamed with
cognac and served over vanilla ice cream. The city's two
sandwich extravaganzas are po-boys and muffulettas. The
former (similar to submarines and heros) are served on
thick slabs of French bread and include a dizzying variety
of stuffings: roast beef and gravy, ham, fried oysters,
fried shrimp, softshell crab and so on.
Muffulettas are served on platter-sized seeded
Italian loaves slathered with olive relish and heaped
with Italian meats and cheeses.
Oh, and incidentally "dressed" here
has nothing to do with attire: it means a sandwich served
"with the works". Lagniappe (pronounced lan-yap)
is a pleasant little something extra. A bonus. Say, 13
doughnuts for the price of a dozen. And last, but by no
means least, "Laissez les bons temps rouler!"
That's a Cajun phrase you'll hear often in this part of
the world. It means, "Let the good times roll!"
You bet, cher. You betcha!
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